In general, there are two ways to get to Teriberka.
1. Fly / drive to Murmansk, and then by bus to the village. I do not know the schedule, but as they said, he goes a couple of times a week and costs 400 rubles.
2. Get into the car and drive some 2000 km))
That's exactly what I'm talking about car travel. Perhaps my post will be useful to someone.

You can get from Moscow to Murmansk by two roads: along Leningradka and along Yaroslavka. We chose Yaroslavl because it is still much less crowded than Leningradka, and to spend extra money on paid sections didn't want to either.
So let's go...
The road can be conditionally divided into 4 sections, I will describe each section separately.

1. Moscow-Vologda. We drive along the Kholmogory highway (M-8).

The main thing is to skip the flea market at the exit from Moscow, and after Pushkino the track usually goes well. On the way, from the window of the car, you can look at Yaroslavl, but the route bypasses Vologda along the ring road. Of course, you can go to Vologda along the way, but the roads in the city leave much to be desired, we popped in for lunch and, to be honest, we were very sorry.
However, if time is not limited, then it is worth visiting Yaroslavl and Vologda, although in this case it would probably be wise to stay in Vologda for the night.

2.Vologda-Medvezhyegorsk

The route is 620 km long, with virtually no traffic. The speed of movement is determined only by the love for the car and the depth of the pits on the road. It is because of this piece of road that most of the owners of "puzoterok" prefer to go through St. Petersburg. For off-road vehicles and similar vehicles, the route is quite convenient for itself: no traffic jams, there are practically no residents and traffic cops.
The main thing to consider is that there is a lot of pressure on this road with gas stations, so it’s better to calculate the need for gasoline in advance. The main part of the road passes through picturesque Karelian forests, almost lifeless villages occasionally flash past the car window.
There is a small town Pudozh 430 km from Vologda.

This is about the middle of the way from Moscow to Teriberka, so I would advise you to stay there for the night. We spent the night at the "Uyut" motel (it stands almost on the highway). You can book through Booking, but it's easier directly. Double economy costs 1600 rubles. There are more comfortable rooms, they are a bit more expensive.

Nearby there is parking and a cafe. We specifically planned our route on two trips (in November and now) in such a way that we would stop here to eat. The food here is really tasty, the price tag is quite adequate (the average check per person for lunch is 450-500 rubles, you can take a business lunch for 250). I highly recommend the Finnish fish soup, hodgepodge and kalitki with millet.

To date, the asphalt surface of the Vologda-Medvezhyegorsk road leaves much to be desired .. although dreams come across long stretches of almost perfect asphalt. Usually at the end of these "highways" there are valiant uncles from the traffic police with radars. And there are also a lot of road repair sites, so it will probably not be scary to ride here in the "puzoterki" soon.
Another problem of this section turned out to be toilets, or rather their complete absence (usually toilets at gas stations, but here you can get from gas station to gas station until you get there ...). It’s easier for boys in this regard .. but for young ladies ((In the summer, of course, you can run into the bushes, and in the winter you need to clear the road to the bushes with a shovel. In general, according to my observations, as “bushes”, people used with might and main occasionally coming across bus stops, or rather small ones patches behind them.Not good, of course, but there were no diapers with them.
In general, advice to young ladies - either diapers, or not to drink liquids))

3.Medvezhyegorsk - turn to Teriberka
From Medvezhyegorsk you go to the "Kola" highway, connecting St. Petersburg and Murmansk. The length of this section is 770 km.

All the benefits of civilization are already here: gas stations, motels, good asphalt and very little traffic.
If you need an overnight stay, then I would advise the Greenwich Hotel in Kandalaksha - cozy, inexpensive, the price includes a pretty decent breakfast. Book directly by phone.
Not far from Kandalaksha there is viewpoint overlooking the White Sea (coordinates 67.123663, 32.5235588)

If you want to see the Khibiny or ride on skiing, then it is worth stopping by in Apatity and Kirovsk.

And, of course, it is this route that crosses the line of the Arctic Circle, as a stele standing by the road will inform you about. True, it costs only one hundred sides of the exit from the Arctic, but people do not take a steam bath and turn around to make themselves with a typewriter against the background of the sign.

In general, the Kola track is very picturesque, and if you are in the right place at the right time, you can take almost fabulous landscapes right from the road

4. Well, the very last section of the path is the road from the highway "Kola" to Teriberka or the track "Serebryanka", length 120 km.

The first half of the route, to the village of Tumanny, is asphalt, and then the usual primer begins. To be honest, I don’t know how it is in summer, but in winter you can drive through it without problems at all by any car, the main thing is that the road doesn’t get covered with snow and you don’t have to wait for a grader.
It is very important to remember here that the last (!!!) gas station on the Kola highway is slightly ahead of the turn, i.e. you need to drive a little towards Murmansk, then turn back. The only inhabitant on the road to the village is a couple of closed military camps, such as Severomorsk-3, i.e. There are no gas stations on the road or in the village itself.

Depending on the speed of movement and your strength, you can get from Moscow to Teriberka in 25-30 hours of pure travel + stops for food, refueling and overnight.

The only thing you should not forget about when driving in winter is that the road can be very slippery and then any mistake can end sadly.

I will write about where to stay in the village itself next time.

Teriberka: road and coast of the Barents Sea. February 28th, 2015

Journey to the Murmansk region. Part 4 - Teriberka. Coast of the Barents Sea.

As promised in the last post, today we will go to Teriberka. Now, after the release of "Leviathan", Teriberka has turned into a fashionable place based on the film, as a result of which the entire population of the small village was attacked by an army of journalists and travelers. I went to Teriberka in September and did not even suspect that she would soon become a victim of such a pilgrimage)
What can I say, I didn’t know about Leviathan either.
The post about Teriberka will be divided into two parts. In this I will tell you about how to get to Teriberka and directly about why I went to it - about the natural beauties of the coast of the Barents Sea. In the next post, let's see how the village lived at the time of September 2014.

1. In order to get to Teriberka from Murmansk, you first need to overcome about 90 kilometers to the east of the Kola Peninsula towards the village of Tumanny, then turn left and overcome another 40 kilometers to Teriberka. And if the first 90 kilometers of the path are not difficult, the road is paved, albeit with holes, then the path along the grader will shake your whole soul out of you.
No, there is nothing terrible and terrible in this road, but you will be shaken from the heart and the chirping of stones in the wheel arches remains in your ears for another good half an hour after you have passed this grader.
In general, the way to Teriberka was uneventful for us, which cannot be said about the guys on the Tuareg who met us halfway. I do not know how this is possible, but they simply lost the rubber from the disk! There is no tire service in Teriberka, so they had to wait for help from Murmansk.
And the grader itself looks like this:

2. Somewhere halfway there is a very strange installation, stylized by unknown authors under ... a traffic police post)

4. During the day, it’s certainly fun and cool, but if you’re driving at night and don’t know about these nice guys, then ... Well, you understand, you can start stuttering a little)

5. No, well, as if alive. Togo and look with honest eyes in a gas mask and say: "Drugs, psychotropic substances are you carrying?"

7. And here it is - the goal. The crevice in the rocks and the resorts of the Barents Sea welcome you!

8. About the resorts later, we should go to the sea! Oh, it seems that our horse will not go further. It's time to stretch your legs.

9. How unrealistically beautiful here. Autumn with its colors only emphasizes the beauty of northern nature, and fog, coupled with light rain, only adds to the feeling of magic.

10. Almost the end of the earth.

11. Now a hedgehog will come out of the fog and will call the horse)

12. Stones are like eggs of unknown birds.

14. And we are approaching the sea. The Barents Sea, which will become the Arctic Ocean a little to the north. If we discard the conventions, then we can tell everyone that I was resting by the ocean.

15. Let's climb higher.

16. There are no resorts on this sea. But this only adds to its charm. It's just not for everyone.

17. And we are climbing up.

18. And behind the rocks, Small Battery Lake begins to appear.

19. Beauty everywhere you look!

20. We also have landscapes no worse than Norwegian ones!

21. Let's go down and continue our way. Somewhere very close to the main goal of our route - Teribersky waterfall.

22. Here he is! Beauties!

23. For centuries, and maybe millennia, water has carved its way through these rocks ...

24. ... to escape into this cold and harsh sea.

26. Surroundings of the waterfall.

27. Constant light rain after a while overcame us completely and we set off on our way back.

28. Road to nowhere.

29. Foggy Teriberka on the horizon. Rather, the village of Lodeynoye. In the next post, we will definitely walk along the streets of this settlement and understand why Lodeynoye has become Teriberka for everyone. Keep in touch! :)

Four years ago, the film "Leviathan" by Andrei Zvyagintsev was released on the screens and the world learned about the village of Teriberka, in which the film was partially filmed.
Personally, I only had enough for the first 20 minutes. Too exaggerated reality, clearly aimed at the European audience, for whom the more tinny and dirty, the better.

"But the reality is not the way it is."
In December, we stopped by this Pomeranian village for several hours, I suggest that we walk around and look at it through my eyes.

We rented a car in Murmansk. For a trip to Teriberka, we were ripped off an extra 30% of the total cost - supposedly for depreciation, because. the road is bad.
The road was really not very good, we got into a snow load, drove about 30 kilometers, almost got stuck and turned back to Murmansk, deciding to postpone the trip for another day. Another day came tomorrow and we safely reached the place (left at nine o'clock in the morning, arrived at twelve).

2

Teriberka is located 120 km northeast of Murmansk, on the coast of the Barents Sea and until recently was closed village because of the proximity to the border. Since 2009, it has been possible to enter Teriberka without special passes.

3

In the European part of Russia, Teriberka is the only place that can be reached by highway to see the open Barents Sea and the Arctic Ocean. Thanks to the constant winds, the village is good place for kitesurfing, including winter.

4

Several years ago, the authorities of the Murmansk region hoped that the screening of the film would increase the flow of tourists to the region, and they were not mistaken - our and foreign tourists eager for the exotic rushed to Teriberka.

5

Especially a lot of Chinese come who hunt for the northern lights. They sincerely believe that if a child shines at the moment of conception, then a great destiny awaits him. And they are very offended if there is no radiance.

6

In the years that have passed since the premiere, four hotels, a hostel, a restaurant were opened in the village and the third Arctic festival "Teriberka. New life". In 2016, Teriberka entered the top twenty popular tourist destinations of the year.

7

The bridge connecting Teriberka and the neighboring village of Lodeynoye was built in the late 80s of the last century, before that people crossed from one bank to another along the river of the same name. Previously, in two villages there was a school and a kindergarten, now they remain only in Lodeynoye.

8

The village of Teriberka has been known since the 15th century. In these harsh, wild places, Russian people came to catch cod, herring, catfish, capelin, hunted the beast.
At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, a real locality: there were two churches, a parochial school, a lighthouse, the first hydrometeorological station on the Murmansk coast.

9

With the establishment of Soviet power, fishing collective farms, a dairy farm, and a reindeer herd appeared in Teriberka.
After the Great Patriotic War, Teriberka actively developed and even became a regional center, which, in addition to various kinds of enterprises, had its own school, hospital, kindergartens, a large store, and a library.
In the late seventies, people began to leave. This happened not only here, but throughout the country: from small villages people moved to the city for a better life. And the economic crisis in the 1990s completely led the village into decline: enterprises closed, problems began in housing and communal services and the social sphere.

10

Fishing collective farms and artels in Teriberka closed long ago: industrial fishing in these places is forbidden for some reason. Local fishermen, of whom there are very few left, can catch seafood for their own needs, but not for sale.

11

Ship cemetery on the way to Lodeynoye.

12

Throughout the village now there are skeletons of abandoned, then destroyed, then grown into the ground buildings.

13

AT best years five thousand people lived in Teriberka, and now there are less than a thousand. Two hundred people from dilapidated houses moved near Murmansk. Those who refused to leave Teriberka were given apartments in a new three-story building in Lodeynoye.

14

You can walk from Lodeynoye to Teriberka in 40-50 minutes, five is enough by car.
On the other side, near the power line, was the house of the protagonist of "Leviathan" Kolya, but only steps to the pier remained from the set.

15

The bus from Murmansk runs four times a week in the evenings, the journey takes more than 4 hours.
Usually augers clear the road in front of the bus. If you're not lucky, you can get stuck in the line for many hours in winter ...

16

The biggest problem that tourists have brought to the locals is that prices have risen in stores. And now many people bring food from Murmansk, they buy 5-7 thousand for a week, here these products would cost almost twice as much.
In the store, the saleswoman forbade taking pictures: "They take a picture, and then they write nasty things on the Internet ..."
What nasty things can be written about an ordinary store, I don’t understand.

17

An ordinary residential building, there are several of them.

18

There was a beautiful wooden house, for some reason it was sheathed with siding and it lost its charm.

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A room in "Teri" costs 3200 with breakfast, in the private sector housing from 500 rubles.

21

The building of the former school has long been abandoned, but inventory and hundreds of books have been well preserved in the classrooms.

22

Rear facade of the school.

23

You can get inside both from the main entrance and from two spare ones. But time was short, some other time...

Teriberka is cut in half by the "Gazprom" road. It passes through the entire village, past the dump of old Zhiguli and the cemetery, through a mountain crevice and out to a small bay. The road was supposed to connect Teriberka with the Gazprom gas liquefaction plant, but the plant was never built.

26

27

In March-April, beluga whales and killer whales approach Teriberka, chasing cod into the sea. Once we saw a blue whale here. Whales appear infrequently in the bay, but they can be seen in the open sea all spring.

28

When there is snow all around, snowboarders go to Teriberka, starting from spring - kitesurfers. Most tourists are in June-August, when the air warms up to 20 degrees and above. Recession from September to December. And then the Chinese come for the northern lights...

29

30

In the summer, the third Arctic festival "Teriberka. New life" was held in Teriberka. One of its founders said he wanted to "breathe life" into the village and turn it into a "paradise".

31

Three thousand people came to the festival. The organizers set up a campsite on the seashore, staged scenes, invited artists, and arranged several lectures. While some were talking about urbanism, others were boating on the sea and watching birds, others were watching circus performances, and others were swimming in icy water.

32

Urbanists from the USA, the Netherlands and Russia have prepared a "Master Plan for Teriberka Ecovillage". They proposed to clean up Lodeynoye, install children's and playgrounds, sports equipment on the streets, organize 25-45 places where you can relax or hide from the weather, and build up a new village with two-story houses.

33

The authors of the concept propose to divide Teriberka into two parts: the ethnoterritory and the territory of dachas. On the ethno-territory, by the sea, build one-story houses, like those of the coast-dwellers, and two-story boarding houses, outwardly similar to barracks, put up antique wood warehouses and telegraph poles. The second territory is proposed to be divided into land from 4 to 15 acres for summer cottages. Urbanists also propose to create a warning and evacuation system in case the hydroelectric power plant breaks through.

34

For tourists, investors are going to build in the village petrol station- Now the nearest gas station is 120 kilometers away, in Murmansk. The gas station on the coast of the Barents Sea will be designed not only for cars, but also for snowmobiles and other equipment.

35

Cemetery of old Zhiguli and a view of Lodeynoye on the other side of the bay of the same name.

36

The polar night in the village lasts for 43 days (from December 1 to January 12), and during the full moon, the moon rises and sets twice a day.

37

Illustration for the title photo - in a moment Tanya fell waist-deep into a snowdrift.

40

The only cafe-restaurant at the camp site with Moscow prices may not serve - we just got on a lunch break in the middle of the day (!)
A cup of fish soup - 300 rubles, tea from a bag 50, coffee 150.

41

P - patriotism.

42

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To bark - easily!

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47

Here and there we were constantly accompanied by a pair of dogs - black and white.

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The Teriberka River at the confluence with the Lodeynaya Bay.

52

The low tide exposed the sandy shore.

53

An illustration for a movie.

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Berth.

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Temple.

62

Abandoned on Red Street.

63

It's only three o'clock in the afternoon, it will soon start to get dark and it's time for us to leave.

64

Ordinary Russia, we have thousands of such villages, but not everyone is lucky to be featured in the cinema and become a tourist attraction.
I would like to believe that the plans of enthusiasts are destined to come true.

65

Day 10. 21/06/15 "Teriberka by car"

Murmansk - Kola - Teriberka - Murmansk

Run for the day 303 km.

Today is the longest day of the year and the shortest night. And how can these definitions be applied to Murmansk, if there is a polar day here? The sun does not set below the horizon all day long. Look at the photo taken from our window at one in the morning!

Murmansk. View from the window at midnight

It's good that our windows did not face north, then it would be very difficult to fall asleep. And so, tired during the day, we quickly fell asleep, without even pulling the thick curtains.

Another day of our stay in Murmansk will also be full of events and impressions. In order to please the children, we decided to first go to the amusement park, then get on an excursion to the Lenin nuclear icebreaker, and then go out of town, but to the east, again to sea ​​coast- in the village of Teriberka.

Since the amusement park opened at 10 o'clock, it was possible to sleep longer in the morning. The weather was sunny, 14-15 degrees, real summer!

Murmansk. Attractions. Flying saucers

Attractions occupy a relatively small area of ​​the main city park, spread out on the shores of Lake Semenovsky. The places are beautiful to just take a walk, but we, unfortunately, do not have much time - only a couple of rides. Unpleasantly surprised by the prices - the most simple attraction is not less than 200 rubles. They put 1,000 rubles on a special card, went to the circuit, took the children for a ride in a canoe, on a swan on the water, and everything was empty. I had to add more because I saw here unusual attraction with flying saucers. On a round bun with inflatable sides there are two joysticks that control two engines. By manipulating them, you can move forward, backward or turn around in place. Vova tried it - Natasha also wanted to. While you learn, you spin around at random, collide with others. Funny.

Then we rushed as fast as we could to the city center. They left the car there railway station and along a long passage over a dozen railway tracks occupied by coal wagons, they moved to the port area. At the pier is the world's first nuclear icebreaker "Lenin", turned into a floating museum. On weekends there are guided tours for everyone. Start at 12 o'clock. The site says that you can call and agree, but no matter how much I called, no one answered the indicated phones, so we decided to take a chance and just come to the appointed time.

We were not the only ones. Along the way, we overtook a group of Chinese moving in the same direction, and at the entrance to the pier there were already two dozen of our fellow citizens who also wanted to visit the icebreaker. Taking advantage of the fact that there was no queue, we squeezed closer to the gate and, when the sailor on duty began to let the tourists through, we found ourselves in the very first group. Pass in groups of 20 people. Once on board, buy tickets and continue on your way, accompanied by a guide.

At the helm of an icebreaker

The duration of the tour is about an hour. Not much can be done during this time, but general impression it is possible to compose. All the main elements are located in the main superstructure of the ship. We went down a little - the engine room with combined-cycle turbines, from there you can look into the reactor hall through a small window. We went up a little - a wardroom, a salon for officers, a captain's cabin. A little higher and already - a navigation bridge. There the tour ends.

The overall impression is quite favorable. This is the only icebreaker museum in the world. You won't see this anywhere else. And taking pictures in the helmsman's place is also amusing. And it is interesting to look at navigational instruments of the last century. We are very lucky to be able to get on this tour!

Then it was possible to immediately go east towards Teriberka, but I decided that in order to complete my acquaintance with Murmansk, it was necessary to stop by the town of Kola, which was founded here a long time ago, several centuries before Romanov-on-Murman.

Kola. stone church

Since the wooden town was on fire more than once, and during the Russian-Turkish war of 1854 it was fired upon by English ships, only the stone church with a huge onion-shaped dome was preserved from the sights. Going inside, I was somewhat surprised to see an ordinary flat ceiling instead of vaults under the dome. The jackdaw put a couple of candles, and another tick appeared on our route.

Now nothing prevented us from going out of town and moving towards Teriberka by car. East direction does not have such significance as the western one - towards the border, so the first 50 km of the road were broken asphalt, and when we turned to the sea, a dusty grader went in general. Surprised by the number of cars on the roadside. Today is Sunday and, apparently, many locals preferred to spend it outside the city. Around the tundra and swamps, so you can’t go far to the side, here and there smoke from fires rose from the bushes along the sides of the road.

If in Murmansk itself there are parks with large trees, then outside the city the natural nature of the Arctic is low, gnarled trees, moss, an abundance of berries. Stopping in one place, we were surprised at the dense carpet of blueberries under our feet, completely strewn with small red flowers, future berries.

The village of Teriberka is located in a closed bay of the Barents Sea, at the mouth of the river of the same name. It once prospered with its fishing collective farm. Now times are different - everywhere desolation. Two-story houses stand without windows. There are no signs of life in the small wooden huts either. But above the trailer at the entrance hangs a sign "Fashionable women's shoes." Rave.

Having passed along the only street, we found ourselves on a wide sandy beach. There was a low tide. The water went down a hundred meters, exposing a flat and clean sandy bottom. Streams of water still oozed from the sand, forming a bizarre pattern.

Besides us, there is only one couple in a Lexus with local numbers. And so - a complete lack of people. The sea is calm. There is no wind, and a light wave barely rolled onto the shore.

We walked and took pictures. Children are children - they began to dig in the sand and build some kind of canals. “Water intake,” Vova explained. The sun was warm, but the water temperature was 10 degrees. An impromptu table and benches were put together from the fragments of the boards. We had a bite, enjoying the purity of the air, the spaciousness and wildness of nature.

And then we went swimming! This, of course, is loudly said - they just rolled up their pants to their knees and ran into the salty water of the Barents Sea, giving Natasha a camera and instructing them to quickly take a picture of us. The water, of course, is cold, but you get used to it quickly, and five minutes can be completely tolerated. Moreover, then you will stand on dry sand, warmed by the polar sun, close your eyes, and it will seem that you are somewhere on the Black Sea, and not at the end of the world beyond the Arctic Circle.

Bathing in the Barents Sea

It cleared up completely. You can take off your jackets and bask in the sun. But the trumpet is calling! We have another interesting point here. Returning to the fork in the road at the bridge, we took a little to the left and after a few hundred meters we drove into the neighboring village of Lodeyny, which, despite the abandoned houses on the outskirts, has a more residential look. Children are playing in the street. The school and kindergarten are adorned with freshly painted walls.

Having passed along the only street, we again found ourselves on a rocky path, which meandered between the seashore and an almost round lake. Somewhere out there, further, there must be a waterfall, breaking off a cliff right into the sea. Apparently, this place is quite popular with the locals. Rolling over from bump to bump, going around large stones, we came across different vehicles from battered VAZs to an IVECO SUV with a kung, which flaunted the names of many countries and the image of a kangaroo. We decided that these were probably Australian autotourists traveling around the world.

Waterfall

We got to a small patch, where there were about a dozen cars, and then we went on foot. Before the waterfall there was nothing, and the rocky road turned out to be so broken that not every UAZ can handle it. However, walking 500 meters after many kilometers of sitting in a car is a pleasure.

Behind a small pass, there was another lake, from which a river flowed, immediately breaking down from a stone ledge straight to the sea. It's Sunday, and quite a few people have decided to have a picnic in this picturesque place. Not to say that there were crowds of people, but there was no feeling of being lost or “end of the world”. On the contrary, smoke curls and smells of barbecue. To take a good shot, you need to wait until other photographers free up space.

The waterfall is not outstanding, but quite beautiful, like all the surrounding nature. Pink stones, covered with fresh green vegetation, blue Lake and clear skies. Loved it and went back. Although, perhaps, it was worth going a little further - to the neighboring hill, on which the guns of an abandoned coastal battery. But I found out about this later, when I was looking at our route in Google Earth. We just enjoyed walking to this beautiful place. Mosquitoes disappeared somewhere, although there was no wind. The kids even took off their sweatshirts.

Our return journey lay along the same road and would have been unremarkable if the spillway had not been opened at the dam of the Teriberskaya hydroelectric power station. We drove ahead and did not even notice anything, not realizing that it was a lake shore or a reservoir dam. Now, a waterfall of water was seething along the concrete spillway trays. The whole stream below is flooded. And on the surface of the reservoir near the gates, a powerful funnel formed. Judging by the reaction of the drivers of the 51st region, who also almost all stopped here to look at the man-made waterfall, this is not a frequent phenomenon. It turns out we were very lucky.

We arrived home around 9 pm. The sun still shines high above the horizon. We ran into the store for supplies for dinner and the road ahead. Tomorrow we leave early, so we still need to have time to get some rest.

January 30th, 2018 05:38 am

There are not many places in Russia where you can drive directly to the Arctic Ocean. And if we take into account the presence of a normal road to the ocean itself and transport accessibility, then it becomes obvious that there is only one such place - this is a village Teriberka in the Murmansk region. Do not discount the great power of cinema. After the release of Andrey Zvyagintsev's film "Leviathan", where the action mainly takes place in these harsh lands, curious people flocked here in search of the exotic. We, going to Teriberka, expected to see something depressing, something like the recently visited Belomorsk, but we saw a village in which life is in full swing, new hotels are being built and roads are being filled. Tourists here are like midges in the arctic tundra, and Murmansk residents go to Teriberka just to eat shish kebabs overlooking the ocean.

Although, to be precise, this is still not the Arctic Ocean, but the Barents Sea.

But when you look into the distance, it is so easy to imagine that there, beyond the horizon, beyond the icy waters, the kingdom begins eternal ice and not far from the North Pole. And it is so unusual to feel at the end of the earth. So for us in this place the Barents Sea was the Arctic Ocean :))

I must say that the Arctic Ocean from the very beginning broke stereotypes. He turned out to be not stern, leaden and sullen, as it seemed, but quiet and affectionate, just like south seas. The similarity was emphasized by a beach with golden sand, along which sunbathers in swimsuits floated.

But we must understand that this ocean serenity is very deceptive, and the real Barents Sea is evil and merciless.

From Murmansk to Teriberka about 140 kilometers. The first two thirds of the way are excellent asphalt.

The landscape outside the car window after leaving Murmansk immediately changes. Here is the real tundra. It was here that we saw the classic dwarf birches and aspens for the first time in our lives.

From the turn to Teriberka, the primer begins, shaking, but passable for any transport.

Shortly after the turn, a strangely dressed traffic cop can be seen by the road.

According to the old northern custom, offerings are left to the traffic cop.

Next to the traffic cop is a traffic police car.

At the entrance to Teriberka, the road forks. If you drive to the right, then you enter Old Teriberka.

The village of Staraya Teriberka stands on the bay with the same golden beach, which was mentioned above.

Only about 300 people live in Staraya Teriberka. The village is old, Pomeranian, known since 1523. In Soviet times, especially in the post-war years, there was a prosperous urban-type settlement with a population of 4.5 thousand people. There was a port, a fishing collective farm, a fish factory, there was even a reindeer herd of 2000 heads. Then everything fell into disrepair: the port ceased to exist, fish ceased to be caught due to the construction of the Teribersky hydroelectric power stations, and the reindeer herd was transferred to Lovozero.

True, in last years there was a significant revival of life. And the point here is not only tourists and not the revived fish factory. Not far from Teriberka, Gazprom is building its own base, as well as a plant for the production of liquefied natural gas. A decent road has already been rolled up there, along which we rode the next day.

Soon, gas from the Shtokman field will be supplied there, it will be liquefied here and loaded onto tankers. There is a possibility that thanks to this, Teriberka will again become a rich and prosperous village.

Although no one really believes in this, and so far here it is like this:

Harsh Teriberian stops:

If you go left at the fork, to the bridge, you will get to Lodeynoye. This is the name of the far outskirts of Teriberka.

On the way it is impossible not to stop at the "cemetery of tired ships".

This is the former fleet of the fishing collective farm.

Very impressive picture, especially at low tide.

From the "cemetery of tired ships" another kilometer away and we drive into Lodeynoye. Lodeynoye is several times larger than Teriberka. Approximately 1000 inhabitants live here. Lodeynoye is built up mainly with five-story and two-story buildings. Some of them are empty.

There is even a new house. It was built and built and finally built))

But there are some.

Cool Tikhvin Church in an ordinary silicate two-story building.

Behind Lodeyny we stopped at the garages marked "fish". The locals immediately pulled out a huge salmon, quoting a price of 1000 rubles. Teriberka has long been known as a poaching settlement. Suffice it to say that for several years the head of Teriberka was Captain Valery Yarantsev, the same one who was chased by the Norwegian navy, and he fled to neutral waters and held two Norwegian inspectors hostage.

The landscape around was so unusual and attractive that we stopped every now and then for a photo shoot and ran to the ocean.

The overcast photos below were taken in the morning. next day, when we, barely waking up and fighting off midges, which were unmeasured on that calm morning, went to meditate by the ocean.

Teribersky Cape, at the far end of which you can see the lighthouse.

The one-story building is the first meteorological station on the Murmansk coast, founded in 1889.

The beach here is completely different than in Old Teriberka. A real harsh arctic beach.

The water in the Barents Sea gives off turquoise, as if it were not the harsh Arctic, but the sultry Mediterranean.

The road eventually leads to a waterfall. But the further way is passable only for jeeps.
We, a little before reaching the waterfall, set up camp. First line with ocean view. What else can you dream of?

The waterfall is located in a beautiful and cozy bay. Nearby - the purest riding lake.

After seeing the Karelian Voitsky padun, the Teribersky waterfall did not impress me very much. But the gorge near the waterfall among the red rocks is very picturesque.

And absolutely bewitching view of the Barents Sea.

Finally, we are separated from the people. Finally, wildness and solitude.

The path to Cape Dolgy goes past small lakes with a waterfall...

Past the stone rivers.

Hills, swamps, modest polar flowers, lichens, mosses, cloudberries, fresh wind and endless expanses opening ahead - for this we climbed so far.

On one of the hills stood a wooden pillar sprinkled with stones. Most likely, there used to be a wooden cross. Crosses in the North are not so much symbols of Orthodoxy as navigation signs. Such crosses were erected by Pomors until the 19th century, and now this tradition is being actively revived and wooden crosses can be seen on many hills.

After spending the night on the shores of the Arctic Ocean, the next morning we set off towards the Gazprom base. And here a fly in the ointment was waiting for us.

Near the road, we saw an information stand with the inscription ecological trail. And we love ecological trails, we got hooked on them back in Finland. We were pleasantly surprised by the presence of an equipped path here, at the end of the world, and decided to walk along it. Moreover, at the end of the path, a bird market was promised.

At the beginning of the trail, stands were densely set up with information about the plants growing here and the animals and birds living in the tundra. One of the stands spoke about the vulnerability of the tundra and urged not to trample on poorly restored plants and lichens, but to walk only along the paths. So we are always FOR!

However, the path soon became bogged down in a swamp. Bravery and stupidity! and we rushed into the swamp. Naturally, they failed and got their feet wet, but stubbornly moved on. And then the path disappeared.

Everywhere, as far as the eye could see, there were stands in disorder on the hills, and the information on them was repeated five times. We walked along the tundra, which cannot be trampled, from stand to stand, hoping to see the missing path to the bird colony.
But she was nowhere. We were simply swindled!

Apparently, having received the money, the performers stupidly set up stands so that they could report on the proper use of funds. Most of all, it was jarring that, as a result, we trampled on the tundra much more than if we had simply walked along the coast to the bird colony.

Frustrated, we decided to curtail our stay in Teriberka, especially since it began to rain heavily. Nothing reminded of yesterday's beach splendor.

But, despite the last bummer, Teriberka remains in our memory as one of the most unusual and attractive places we have ever visited.